Sorry if this is in the wrong forum, but there doesn't appear to any specific one on air compressors. If it's not please feel free to direct me to the correct one.

• Hydrovane 23 Manual

I need repair/rebuild/overhaul information on the 'Hydrovane' (rotary vane) type compressors, specifically the 13/23/33 series. I have four of these. The problem I have with one is the internal pressure regulation has stopped working and the pump just blows the pressure relief valve.

I've made a basic investigation, and it appears the (adjustable) pressure relief valve seems to control the inlet poppet valve to regulate air drawn in thus air compressed(?) I think the o-ring in the poppet vale piston may be sticking. Anyone have acces to factory manuals?

Or a site where they've been published? I've had no luck thus far. Cheers, John. 'It's not always a case of learning more, but often of forgetting less' RE: Hydrovane compressor (Mechanical) 7 Sep 08 12:34.

OFFSHORE SPARES KIT Before Shipping and VAT If sailing further afield, we recommend you carry the Offshore Spares Kit. It includes spares for the common wear points:. Vane Cover (#76) – The lightweight ripstock nylon vane covers can last a surprisingly long time, but the sun takes her toll. Be sure to take the vane off when not in use, and store out of the sun. 2 Locking Pins – There are 3 Locking Pins (#60, 61, 62) on the unit, all interchangeable.

The Shaft Locking Pin should be changed periodically as it can suffer from metal fatigue while motoring. It’s a good idea to rotate the pins from time to time. The Locking Pins supplied in the Offshore Spares Kit are made of Super Duplex stainless steel – 3x stronger than 316. Drive Sleeve (#19) – will develop grooves and may need replacement after 25,000nm or so. Shaft Bottom Bearing (#25) – will show signs of wear after 25,000nm or so. Spare M10 x 65 Bolt Sets, Grub Screws, and Axel.

Please note that both Metric and Non-Metric grub screws are supplied with the kit. Pre 2016 – use Imperial (3/8” x ½” Set Screws). Post 2016 – use Metric (M10 Set screws). SHAFT Bearing Kit Before Shipping and VAT Bearings also sold separately Please advise if shaft outer diameter (OD) is 1 ¼” / 31.75 mm or the older 1 1/8″ / 28.575 mm. Measure at the bottom section, where the rudder fits on. When ordering bearings, it is helpful for us to know the vintage of the Shaft Assembly. If you do not know the age, you may have to remove the shaft to measure the inside diameter (ID) of the outer tube – here is a guide:. Pre 2002.

1 1/8″ / 28.575 mm shaft – tube is 46.8 mm ID. 1 ¼” / 31.75 mm – tube is 44.4 mm ID.

Post 2002 – all shafts are 1 ¼” / 31.75 mm – tube is machined inside to 46 mm ID The Mid-Bearing (#24M) and stainless Bottom Collar (#26) are only available for post 2002 shaft assemblies. For 1 1/8″ Shaft we have a delrin Bottom Collar (#26). Upgrading Parts ‘To-do’s’ if you wish to refurbish an older unit:.

All Shaft Bearings, including the new Mid-Bearing (#24M). We discovered that, at speed, the shaft could flex a bit to cause the bottom bearing to crimp and stick – not long enough to be noticeable, unless you are watching for it. The Mid Bearing, included in shaft assemblies after 2008, is made of PTFE and solves the sticking.

It is a definite improvement especially for faster boats with longer shafts. Bottom Collar (#26) – now made of ‘316’ stainless steel for the 1 ¼” / 31.75mm shaft. Solves all prior issues of cracking plastics. Vane Knob (#32) and Axis Knob (#33) – new versions, since 2005, are far tougher and improved with a nyloc nut to prevent the knobs from spinning off (a problem with the old knobs). Now available in kits that include the additional parts that were probably lost when the original knob fell off – assuming a lost knob is your problem. Improved Bobbin & Con Rod Assembly – In the spring of 2010 we improved the design by eliminating the Con Rod Top Casting (#68). The Con Rod now fits directly into the Bobbin.

The fit is tighter making the system more responsive and it is stronger – way stronger – 33 times stronger. Other Drive Unit Upgrades – If keeping an older VXA2 Model, a matching upgrade would also include new lead weights (now properly balanced for light air performance), tiller (less prone to break or come loose), drive sleeve (tighter), and axis disc (altered to provide a bit more action – not easy to replace). Rudder – We keep improving the rudder:.

In 2006 the length was increased by 5.5 inches/14 cm. In June 2009 it got thicker by adding 5 lbs./2.3 kgs.

– now weighs 23 lbs./10.5 kgs (half that in water). The latest version (introduced in the summer of 2009) was developed by our in-house engineer, Ted Hargreaves. Ted inspired the upgrade based on his aeronautical experience with foils. After the first test Ted reported it was much more powerful but so light to the touch – easy to control – couldn’t believe that it could be that good while also being so very stable. It is a vast improvement.

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We strongly recommend the upgrade for any owners with older versions of the rudder who would like the extra power. Shaft (#29) – now standard (since January 2009 or so) is a ‘super duplex’ steel shaft:. Nearly three times as strong as the old ‘316’ version!. This shaft is a ‘must’ for today’s rudder. To determine which shaft you have look at the bottom: the old ‘316’ version has a rounded radius at the bottom. Most of the new ‘super duplex’ ones have a straight 15 degree taper. The true test is to put a magnet on the shaft – ‘316’ is NOT magnetic but the SD is magnetic.

‘A’ Bracket ‘Shaft Clamp Section – all parts on the outboard end including the 3 castings:. In the fall of 2013 we introduced an improved ‘A’ Bracket.

Hydrovane 23 Manual

The old version was quite flexible but the arms were rigid at an angle of 40 degrees. The arms can now be set at any angle from 40 degrees to 80 degrees – making our most flexible bracket even more flexible. Please consider all of the above if looking to purchase a used unit We only produce parts for the current model – since 1986.